• Once the thing slides apart ˝" the spring is easy to grab and remove so do that, and now you need to slide the Peco back together again. Note that the points tracks may have slid away from the frog. If so, you need to gently push them back into their frog connectors. With the Peco face up, push the turnout together until the throwbar just touches the wide tie it was originally next to before you molested it. Work the throwbar back and forth now, pushing down on it with your finger to smooth out any scrapes you may have created on sliding surfaces in your endeavors. If the turnout comes apart from all the stretching so that either the last few ties or the whole throwbar-points assembly end up separated from the turnout, don't scream or even fret. It goes back together easily enough.
Using Tortoises For Frog Power Switching
The good news is that Tortoises can do frog power switching for up to 1 amp, which means any normal N-scale non-DCC layout will do fine. The bad news is that if you have DCC, you probably need to get an extra relay (around $14 from Circuitron) because your frog current will exceed 1 amp. This means the Tortoise's built-in accessory switches will still help, but the current load must be shouldered by the relay. If you have lots of turnouts and use DCC, this could be a serious budgetary issue.
In spite of having made your points' cleanliness irrelevant to train stalling, you'll still want to run a track cleaner car, wipe the track with cleaner periodically, and/or keep your house well filtered and dust free (we use an electrostatic air cleaner on our furnace). Things will run better and you'll have more fun—besides, who wants to scrape dirt off loco wheels when they begin lurching when it would have been so much easier to keep it off the track so it wouldn't get on the loco in the first place?
There's a good chance the ends of the outside rails are no longer even and you'll need to push the end of the Peco against your workbench until you realign them—be careful not to push the points too far toward the points end of the Peco, or they will either be sticky or not close all the way because the usual seat for the points (against the rails) has been moved just enough to cause the points to hit a little ledge that it normally just misses (study this area of your Peco to see what I mean). If the turnout feels loose like it's going to cause problems, remember that when you ballast it into your layout, and wire it in, and rail joiner it in, you can use a drop or two of CA to hold ties to roadbed in two places so it will never try to slide apart again. And/or you can CA the square metal doohickey into place again since its apparent purpose in life is to prevent rail slippage.